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Mandy asks…

Leaking Rooves on garden sheds.?

I have 2 sheds in our garden; one is for garden tool storage the other I have made into an office housing my computer and Hi-Fi. Both roofs are covered in felt applied in strips off a roll starting at the bottom edge so the higher ones overlap the lowers. Externally both appear to be intact but both leak in heavy rain. I've tried pinpointing the locations of the leaks from inside the sheds but despite applying sealer externally the leaks occur most times it rains. I appreciate that I will have to apply new covers but would appreciate guidance as to which are the best and longest lasting materials to use. I'm a pensioner so I'd like to keep costs down but reliable leak prevention is more important than cutting cost to the bone. Incidentally both roofs are flat but fall about about 30 cms from back to front. What knowledge I have is about cars, motorcycles and planes; my knowledge of building maintenance is minimal. Any recommendations please??
Robert B

landscapeliving answers:

Your starter for 10 - its roofs.... Not rooves.

Shed flat felt roofs are the nations biggest home roofing DIY project, having done roofing personally for 10 years (and as a family business for 35 years) and generally these home spun repairs do not work, or if they do look awful or only last for a couple months.

Ironically, getting a contractor in would likely prove to be more expensive than replacing the whole shed... So not a really practical road to go down.

Right... Firstly, buy a really decent quality felt... (capping felt with a green mineral finish), you should spend no less than £20 for a single roll if you want a good decent felt, you can buy felt for less, but the quality is ALWAYS questionable.

The felt itself - we have used Marley tough torch for about 9 years now. It is an elastomeric bonded felt, which in lamens terms means that you heat it up and stick it down, but the felt can breath and shift so not to cause blisters or splits.
Apply the felt directly to the old feltwork if its still solid, old felt acts as a great surface for new felt.

Apply atleast a 3'' overlap at joints (4''-6'' is better), and always make sure feltwork leads down the roof (in other words, as you say, the low felt goes underneath the higher).

Avoid tacking the felt, use the torch on as intended for this you'll require a hand held bunsen or calor gas 'clickie'.

Thats about it really... If done correctly, modern felting can last up to 30 years (with regular maintenance).

PS - All the above suggestions i would put in the 'home bodging' catagory.
Aquaseal - Cheap and tacky (good cheap alternative to flexacryl (lead sealant))
Bitumin on joints - lasts about 6 months before cracking and flaking.
Mike Hunts 'cheap felt' - not worth the money spend on it.
Cheap felt is exactly what it says... CHEAP... And tell me something cheap that lasts?

Thomas asks…

japanese knotweed in the garden?

don't groan, but bought house last year (south east UK) and noted some dry stubbly bamboo-type/reed stumps in the ground at the bottom of the garden - cut them away and in the last few weeks these beasties have sprouted up to about 3 metres - my friend popped round for a cuppa and was apoplectic when she saw them because apparently (I'm not a gardener) it is japanese knot-weed and not good (underestimation!)- the neighbour at the bottom of the garden has it all around his sheds too on the other side of the fence backing onto the area it is growing in my garden - how best to get rid without damaging the sapling trees I planted next to it? (before I realised what it was) -thanks - at the moment it is localised to where the neighbouring gardens converge at the end and not near any buildings/houses (other than sheds)

landscapeliving answers:

There is an article online by Defra (the Government's Environment Dept.) that covers Japanese Knotweed.
It is not listed in the Weeds Act and is not a 'notifiable' weed
You do NOT have to report it to your local council
You do NOT even have to get rid of it

http://www.defra.gov.uk/wildlife-pets/wildlife/management/non-native/knotweed.htm

However, in the interests of your garden you do need to do something about the Knotweed or it will eventually take over. There are several tel. Nos. At the bottom of the above link, one of which will cover your area and they will advise you on the best action to take.
To treat it without damaging your trees you can buy some Roundup and paint it onto the leaves (do not spray as it may drift) and it will over a period of time considerably reduce the infestation but will need repeat doses to keep it at bay.

Helen asks…

What is the best way to get rid of flies in my garden? Have tried everything from moth balls to fly catchers!?

What is the best way to get rid of flies in my garden and around my kitchen? I have tried mothballs and fly catchers but nothing seems to work. My brother has a house not far from us, he has 4 chickens, 2 rabbits, a guinea pig, a dog and two cats.. and no flies at all! We only have two dogs and seem to get them in mass.

We also keep all recycled cans and bottles washed up and the boxes stored in the shed whereas he doesn't clean his out and keeps his box outside with the lid off.

Any suggestions would be appreciated/

landscapeliving answers:

Fly Parasites, They kill flies in the pupa stage before they hatch into flies. These TINY wasps (fruit fly size) specialize in the killing of flies.
They DO NOT sting humans or mammals.
These beneficial are naturally occurring and wide spread in LOW numbers. They just need reinforcements to exert fly control where breeding flies are abundant.
For best results with these little beneficial organisms start early spring, like MAY.
This is ALL NATURAL!!!
For further information Call I.P.M. Labs, Locke New York.
1-315-497-2063
or http//:www.ipmlabs.com
prepare now for next seasons invasion!

David asks…

How do I clear a very, very overgrown garden???

My garden is approx 40' x 70'. It has 2 old apple tress planted in the 50's, one is a smaller 'eating apple' and the other a very large 'cooking apple' tree. I would like to loose both trees.
The garden has not been tendered for about 8 to 10 years and is extremely overgrown, mainly with very thick brambles. There is access to the side of the property, the width is about 6'. (Is that wide enough for; ie. machinery??)
Can anyone advise me as to the best/cheapest/quickest way to clear it ready to start again?
Ideally, I would like to have it landscaped with patios and a shed erected etc. But I have VERY limited funds, and no time or physical ability to do it myself!
It all sounds a bit hopeless but any advice would be welcome

landscapeliving answers:

Sorry - no easy solution - HARD WORK.

Hire a brush cutter (like a strimmer but with metal blades) to cut overgrown brambles and the like down to ground level.

Cut down the branches from the cooking apple tree and then cut the trunk down - the tree with eating apples (personally) I would keep - they provide good shade and a great habitat for birds.

Only hard work will win the day I'm afraid

Donna asks…

Which is the cheapest internet router and the best?

There are so many on the market that I am not sure which to buy,
I need one that will reach at least 100m I need to use my laptop in my shed at the bottom of the garden.

landscapeliving answers:

D-link or net gear will probable be your cheapest, I never had a problem with either but I have had some friends have trouble with em. Linksys is a little more $$, maybe like 10 or 15 bucks more but worth it, I have never had or heard of anyone having trouble with them.

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